The Naming
and Taming of Albeni Falls
By Charles I. Barker
(revised in 1972, Fielden L.
Poirier, Sr. Updated & edited for space available in 2002 by
Barb Hornby)
One hundred ninety-four years
have gone down in history since the first white man viewed and
explored what is now known as Albeni Falls, located on the
scenic Pend Oreille River between Newport, Washington and Priest
River, Idaho. As that white man stood on the banks of the river
overlooking the falls, he marveled at what he saw. He described
it as “a scenic place of nature’s handiwork. Two separate
channels of water sunk deep into solid granite divided by a rock
island, sluiced through each of the respective channels—the
great volume of waters of the river in its mad rush to the sea.”
There is no doubt that the white man would have felt a thrill of
joy for the future if he had visualized that, nearly
one-and-a-half centuries later, this magnificent piece of
nature’s scenery would be revised by the hand of man. It would
be harnessed and put to work for the betterment of mankind. The
man in question was David Thompson. He was an engineer and
explorer who was employed by the Northwest Fur Company, which
built a fur trading post on Pend Oreille Lake near Hope, Idaho
in 1808.
Upon completing the Kalispellem House trading post, Thompson
named the lake and river “Kalispellem”. However, several years
later some French Canadian trappers came in, and not knowing the
river and lake had already been named, renamed it the “Pend
Oreille Lake and River.” Thompson’s next mission was to explore
the Pend Oreille River, to ascertain if it was navigable by boat
to the Columbia River, as a means of transporting their furs to
Astoria, Oregon. After reaching Box Canyon, the explorers
decided that the waters of this canyon were too treacherous and
swift to navigate by boat. The men retraced their steps and left
the Pend Oreille River valley west of the present site of Usk,
Washington and traveled over the mountains to the Spokane River
where the Spokane House trading post was being built.
The next known white men to visit the falls were Jesuit
missionaries, Father Peter Desmet and Hoaakson and their
assistants. Upon reaching the site of the falls late in December
of 1843, a severe storm was raging. They were compelled to make
camp for the winter at the falls where several families of
Indians lived in their teepee wigwams nestled among the rocks.
This site was the Indians favorite hunting and fishing grounds,
and no doubt had been for years prior 1843.
In his diary, Father Desmet described Christmas Eve Mass at the
falls. He wrote, “After learning that we would have to remain in
camp for the winter, we hastily constructed a Chapel made of
poles and covered by skins and grass mats, and we were soon
prepared for Christmas Eve Mass.” They had no bells to toll so
they fired a musket at intervals. The Indians invited the
missionaries to join them in celebrating a Christmas Day feast.
They had killed several deer and caught fish from the river.
Father Desmet baked some bread on their outdoor stone fireplace.
On Christmas Day the white man and Indian squatted on the banks
of the Pend Oreille River and had a feast fit for a king.
In 1883, two young French Canadian brothers, Albeni and Louis
Poirier settled in what was then known as Spirit Valley
(Blanchard, Idaho). It was located about twelve miles south of
the Pend Oreille River. They homestead in the valley and engaged
in farming and cattle raising. In 1886 Albeni sold his interest
in the Poirier Brothers farm at Blanchard and relocated. He
homesteaded the land at the falls on the Pend Oreille River and
the area was named for him. Albeni and Louis widened an Indian
trail between Rathdrum and the falls and for years this was used
to haul supplies. Albeni built a log cabin on the banks of the
river and this soon became headquarters for navigation on the
river. He built and operated the first ferry on the Pend Oreille
River just below the falls. He operated it until one was begun
at Old Town, Idaho. Albeni also operated a small hotel, boarding
house and saloon for many years as well as farming the meadow
land that was to the south of the river. Newport, Washington
sprang into existence in 1890 and later became the main port for
steamboats and river transportation.
The Great Northern Railroad was built over Albeni Falls in 1892
and trains started to operate in 1893. The railroad ran
excursions to the site and picnics were held on the island above
the falls. The railroad disturbed the location of Albeni’s home
and he was required to move his home from the riverbank. He then
built a house on the hill overlooking the river where he lived
the rest of his life. When he retired he sold the farm to his
son-in-law, George Zimmer. Between 1951 and 1954 Albeni Dam was
built by the government. The mighty power of the river was
tamed, harnessed and put to work for the betterment of mankind.
Charles I. Barker gathered the history of Albeni Falls. He
recorded his personal observations and memories throughout the
many years that he spent as a purser on several steamboats
plying the river.
Nearly two centuries have gone by since David Thompson, first
gazed at the majestic beauty of the falls on the Pend Oreille
River (Kalispellem). Many winters have passed since the
missionaries made camp at the falls and spent Christmas with the
Indians. A lot of water has gone over the falls since Albeni
Poirier homesteaded.
Like in the poem “The Bridge Builder” these early pioneers have
crossed the “chasm deep and wide”. Their explorations and
efforts have “bridged” an easier path and provided a rich legacy
for the generations that have followed. It is a history
recalled with amazement for the determination and tenacity that
has brought us to where we are today. Hopefully this Christmas
will bring each of us the same
appreciation
for the spirit and beauty experienced by the first encounters of
Albeni Falls.
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